Gravelbirds is an ultra-cycling event like no other. It began for me on May 11th at 6:30 and ended five days later — I crossed the finish line on May 16th at 16:39, just four hours before the cut-off. It was tough, beautiful, and unforgettable. Let’s break it down day by day. Riding across the south of Portugal allowed me to discover corners of the country I never knew existed. Each day became a story of resilience, discovery, and the power of community on two wheels.
What Is Gravelbirds Ultra Cycling?
Gravelbirds is a 750 km ultra-cycling challenge with 11,500 meters of climbing across southern Portugal. Riders must pass four checkpoints within strict time limits or face disqualification. The course is remote, rugged, and stunning — a true test of endurance. You ride through whitewashed villages, cork tree forests, and desolate mining trails that seem to stretch forever. It’s the kind of adventure where both preparation and mindset are as important as your bike and gear.
Gravelbirds Day 1 – Castro Verde to Serpa
We rolled out of Castro Verde on Saturday, May 11th. Moments before the start, I got a puncture — fastest inner tube change of my life — but still made it off the line. The roads toward Beja were rolling and endless but beautiful. The morning light turned the fields golden, and every hill gave way to a new horizon that seemed to go on forever. Meeting new riders along the way immediately set the tone for how friendly the event would feel.
Along the way I met John, a friendly rider from Sweden, and we rode together to Serpa. Hang Lo, who I’d met on the train to the event, was never far behind. All three of us stayed in local accommodation that night. Sadly, John scratched when his father was hospitalized in Lisbon. It was a reminder that beyond the race, real life still happens, and you have to adapt. Yet even with setbacks, the camaraderie at Gravelbirds was already forming into a strong memory.
Gravelbirds Day 2 – Serpa to Mértola via Checkpoint 1
After an early breakfast I left Serpa, riding solo until I bumped into Christine and Roland — two of the most positive people I’ve ever met. This stretch was remote, with no refueling for 30–40 km at a time, so I carried extra water and food. The gravel was dusty and soft in places, and every corner revealed a new challenge. The silence out there was total except for the crunch of tires and the calls of distant birds.
Later I linked up with Nuno, who rode at my pace, and we decided to stick together. We swapped stories, shared snacks, and laughed through the tougher sections. Checkpoint 1 in Pomarão (200 km) had to be reached before sunset. The final approach went through old mines and railway tracks with collapsed bridges and plenty of hike-a-bike. The section is closed from 20:30 to 6:30, but we managed to reach it at 14:50 on Sunday. Stamp #1 ✅ We continued to Mértola for food and sleep, already looking forward to the next stage of the adventure.
Gravelbirds Day 3 – Towards Santa Clara-a-Velha (Midway to CP2)
Checkpoint 2 lay far ahead on the Atlantic coast in Zambujeira (430 km). It was too far to reach in one go, so our target was Santa Clara-a-Velha. This day packed in 140 km with 2,700 m of elevation. Each climb felt steeper than the last, but the landscape grew greener and more dramatic with every hour. Water crossings and small villages punctuated the journey, offering brief respites from the heat.
The ride was brutal but green and beautiful. Around 16:00 we stopped at a restaurant just as the media car caught us, snapping photos of our uphill struggles. The food was a lifesaver — salty, hearty, and exactly what our bodies needed. By the time we left, the shadows were longer, and the temperature dropped just enough to give us a small boost.
Gravelbirds Day 4 – Checkpoint 2 Zambujeira and Porto Covo
We fueled up with a huge breakfast before heading toward the coast. The start was rough: hike-a-bike sections, river crossings, and technical terrain. But eventually we reached the Atlantic and Checkpoint 2 in Zambujeira ✅ The smell of the ocean and the cool breeze lifted our spirits after days inland. Cresting that final hill to the sea felt like a milestone moment in the race.
They told us the route to Porto Covo was mostly flat. In reality, we faced a relentless 30 km/h headwind plus a 4 km sand hike-a-bike just before town. The wind tore at our jackets and filled our helmets with noise, making every pedal stroke harder. By the time we reached Porto Covo, the relief of a shower and hot meal had never felt so good.
Gravelbirds Day 5 – Checkpoint 3 at Santa Clara
We left early with only a pastry for fuel — 147 km and 2,400 m of climbing ahead. The scenery was spectacular: vibrant green forests, rolling yellow hills, perfect gravel. Morning mist clung to the valleys, and the smell of eucalyptus followed us for hours. It was the kind of day that burned into memory with both effort and beauty.
Our goal was Checkpoint 3 before 20:30. Nuno pushed ahead but promised to wait in Almodôvar. Hang Lo was slightly behind, still tackling the 4 km sand section she’d missed the previous evening. The heat built as the climbs dragged on. Around 110 km in, I ran out of water in a tiny village of six houses. Dogs slept on the tarmac, too hot to bark. A passing driver kindly gave me a bottle of cold water. I made it to Santa Clara for Stamp #3 ✅ — just 17 km more to Almodôvar for pizza and a good night’s sleep. Sadly, Hang Lo missed CP3 by only 15 minutes. She was a true hero to have come that far, and her determination inspired me to push even harder.
Gravelbirds Day 6 – The Final Push to the Finish
123 km and 1,500 m of elevation stood between me and the finish. It was supposed to be an easier day, but I was exhausted. Cold rain fell from 6:00–8:00 before the sun came out. Thankfully, a tailwind helped later. Even with the wind at my back, every hill felt like a wall and every bump echoed in my tired legs. But the excitement of knowing it was the last day kept me moving forward.
Halfway, I stopped in Aljustrel for a burger and ice cream. The roads were smooth but felt endless. At km 80, a puncture forced another quick inner tube change — but the new tube kept losing air, so I had to stop every few kilometers to pump it up. Finally, after one last long grind, I crossed the finish line on May 16th at 16:39 — four hours before the time limit, as the last solo rider. Relief, joy, and exhaustion all hit at once, and it felt incredible to finally stop pedaling.
Gravelbirds Ultra Cycling – Reflections
Gravelbirds was one of the hardest but happiest experiences of my life. The gravel community is incredible, and I met wonderful people along the way. I’m already looking forward to the next ultra. The event showed me that pushing through discomfort can unlock some of the most rewarding moments. Even now, thinking back on it brings a mix of nostalgia and pride.
Preparing for the Next Gravelbirds Event
If you’re thinking about entering Gravelbirds, prepare for:
- Long remote stretches with no services
- Plenty of climbing and technical hike-a-bike sections
- Strict checkpoint cut-offs
- Breathtaking scenery and an unforgettable community
This event will push you to your limits — and reward you with memories for life. Bring more food and water than you think you’ll need, and pace yourself carefully. Above all, embrace the challenge — it’s an adventure you’ll never forget.
